Malaysia Leading Superbike Performance Tuning Company

A Leading Superbike Performance Tuning Company

A Leading Superbike Performance Tuning Company

Tuning Tips

These Tips were originally posted on the Cope Racing website, which no longer exist. They were authored by engine guru Greg Cope. Greg is the current crew chief on Geno Scali's NHRA pro stock Suzuki.
Many people missed these tips when Greg shut the site down, so the fact that he is a good friend, we thought it was OK to rip off his page and repost it for everyone to enjoy. The page will stay up until we receive the "cease and desist" letter from Greg's attorneys.
Most of this stuff applies to the older Kawasaki KS and Suzuki GS style motors.
Technical tips are given as a courtesy to the racer. Results achieved by these tips are the sole responsibility of the racer.

When running a full body and fairing combination on your drag bike it is essential that you install an air box. The air is streamlined around your fairing causing a dead air space in the area of your carburetors. This starves your carbs of air and performance is dramatically decreased as much as three tenths or more. Lining your airbox with a heat reflecting material will keep engine heat out so that you have clean cool air.

Cam Timing
If you want more bottom-end torque, advance your intake cam by 2 degrees.

Anyone building a CBR 600 F2/F3 motor for formula car autocross competition with a turbo charger may benefit by using a set of California EPA cams for these engines. With added boost from a turbo you don't need as much lift and duration in the cam. The EPA California cams are .220 duration compared to the .235 duration 49 state cams of the regular CBR 600F2/F3 models. These are factory OEM camshafts. NOTE: California cams only have .263 lift compared to .325 lift for the 49 state cams.

Camshaft Lift
A simple method of determining the lift of your camshaft. With a vernier caliper measure from heel of cam to nose, then subtract the base circle. This gives total valve lift.

Cam Timing:
KZ 900/1000, GS1100/1150

naturally aspirated motors 110 both intake and exhaust.
GSXR (stock cam) - 105 both intake and exhaust
GSXR (G21X cam) - 106 intake, 108 exhaust.
Turbo Engine Timing
Turbo bikes under boost create a tremendous intake charge. In order to release this charge the exhaust must stay open longer than usual. Suzuki and Kawasaki engines benefit greatly when exhaust cams are set at 112 degrees lobe centers. Set ignition timing at 28 degrees.

To Degree Cams:
Install degree wheel and find TDC with a positive stop. Setup dial indicator on valve and zero indicator with valve closed. Rotate engine until valve is .050" off seat and write down reading on degree wheel. Continue to rotate engine until valve is .050" from closing. Note the number.

To figure lobe center for intake cam subtract opening number from closing number, divide difference by two and add that number to 90. For the exhaust subtract the closing number from the opening number and follow the same formula.

For those of you running 29 smoothbores on a mildly modified street machine, here are some suggestions for carb modifications to give better mid-range performance:
# 20 Pilot Jets

# 0-4 Needle Jet
# 1.0 Air Jets
# 2.5 Needle & Set
* Float level heights, base of gasket to top of float 23.5 - 24.5mm
Mikuni 33mm Smoothbores
For those of you who still own these carburetors a little jetting trick. In order to get better throttle response install 0.6 air correction jets. This allows you to run a smaller main jet while still giving you approximately the same air fuel ratio as before. Good starting point is 4 main jet sizes smaller than you previously had. Also installing a O-6 needle jet will help lean out the mid range.

Fuel Pressure
If you're having trouble figuring out correct fuel pressure on your turbo bike buy yourself a 16oz ratio-rite cup like the one moto-crossers use for pre-mixing fuel. Disconnect fuel line going to carb and place in ratio-rite cup. Turn on fuel pump switch and spin motor over with ignition off. Cup should fill in Approx. 15 seconds. If not, adjust fuel pressure regulator in either direction until result is obtained.

Lectron carbs
set needle height adjustment at 1.825 - 1.835.

Intake Manifolds
For those of you who are planning on running 40mm Mikuni Radial Slide carbs on your '91-92' GSXR-1100 motors, use the intake manifolds from a 1988-89 GSXR-750 and match these to your intake ports.

Anyone planning on building a 1978 GS 1000 2V Suzuki and doing a semi-pro ported head with 38 mm Lectron carbs, use Mikuni manifolds Part #VM 36 -200.
When mounting Lectrons on your Suzuki GS1100/1150 use Dayco Radiator hose cut to 1-5/8" length. For 40mm Lectrons use 1-5/8" I.D. hose, for 44mm Lectrons use 1-3/4" I.D. hose.
Use Kaw "J" model manifolds for mounting Lectrons or Mikuni RS carbs on your KZ/Z1.

Clutch Plates
If you are having problems with busted clutch plates in your motor, Check the steel plates to see if they are warped. Clutch plates need to be mated properly in order to get a proper grip and not distort.

Standard lock-up clutch
use O.E.M. Clutch Springs

For those of you setting up your Kawasaki lock up clutch: spring pressure should be checked at .930" in a spring checker. You should look for around 40lbs per spring.

Connecting Rods
When installing Carillo rods on most late model sportbikes, you need around .002 clearance on the big end of the rod. You need to use Plasti-Gauge to determine how much clearance you have, then contact a dealer about bearing sizes needed.

Use a portable fan hooked up to your generator to cool your motor down between rounds.

When using a GPZ crankshaft in your drag motor you should replace the thrust bearing which is susceptible to failure with a needle bearing. Crank will have to be disassembled. At this time it is a good idea to also have your crank index trued and welded.

Cylinder Head
When installing a GPZ head on a KZ-1000 Kawasaki bottom end you must install a cam conversion tower. If the crank has a 15 tooth sprocket use a 122 link cam chain and KZ 900/1000 cam sprockets (30 teeth). If the crank has a 16 tooth sprocket use a 124 link cam chain and Kawasaki MK II cam sprockets (32 teeth).

Piston to valve clearance ( minimum ):
KZ / Z1 - 0.050 Int., 0.075 Ex.
GS 1100/1150 - 0.050 Int., 0.075 Ex.

Valve to valve clearance ( measured on the seat ):
KZ / Z1 - .200
GS 1100/1150 - .100

Largest valves on a stock seat:
GS 1100/1150 - 28.5mm Int, 24mm Ex
GSXR 1100 (oil cooled) - 30mm Int, 26mm Ex
KZ 900/1000 - 37.5 Int, 31mm Ex
KZ 1000J/GPZ - 38.6 Int, 33mm Ex

Exhaust Pipes
Tired of that new chrome exhaust system turning blue after a couple of passes? Paint the inside of megaphone and head pipes with header paint like VHT, etc. The heat is reflected off the coating and out of the exhaust system. Heat does not get absorbed as quickly through the pipe wall.

Front End Stiffness
Don't run too high an air pressure in your front tire. 30-35 lbs is satisfactory. Keep front end springs on medium stiffness. Not following these steps can cause the rear tire to lose traction at high end due to unloading of chassis.

On motors using 10.5 to 1 compression ratio pistons, a fiber head gasket will work fine. For racing applications; where 13.5 to 1 compression ratio pistons ar used, a copper head gasket is required. Also, when using a copper gasket, the cylinder block must be o-ringed to help the copper gasket seal. Cutting a groove around the sleeve and using a copper wire thickness of .039 is common place. Leave about .009 height of wire above the block surface.
*A Note Of Caution:
When using fiber head gaskets, put them on dry; no sealers or coatings. For copper head gaskets, a spraying of copper coat on both sides is sufficient. Allow it to dry and tack-up for 2 hours before installing. Make sure both the head and cylinder surfaces have been machined flat and are clean before installing the gaskets.

Do not use a Copper Head Gasket on a watercooled motor. If the cylinder has been o-ringed, the gasket will not seal enough by biting into the wire and the water will leak by causing overheating problems. Use a spring steel headgasket and do not o-ring the cylinder.
Head Gasket Sealing
Proper sealing of head gasket can be accomplished following these three steps.

1. Have your cylinder o-ringed
2. Treat both sides of copper head gasket with a light film of Copper Coat, let dry for 2-3 hours
3. Torque stock cylinder studs to 36 ft lb., heavy duty cylinder studs to 42 ft lb..
Note: both head and cylinder surfaces must be parallel.
The formula for figuring correct horsepower is RPM x Tourque divided by 5250

Ignition System
For those of you who plan to purchase the new Dyna-2000 ignition for a GPZ 1100 motor (1981-85), you must use the ignition housing with seal from a KZ1000J motor.

When using a Vance & Hines Powerpak Ignition on your sportbike, use 3 OHM coils with graphite suppression wires. With a Dyna-2000 Ignition, use 2.2 OHM coils with the same type of wire.
Air Kill / Rev Limiter
When wiring a two-step with an air shifter on your bike you need to wire the air kill to wherever the tach source is (i.e. Dyna-4000 MSD box) so as not to interrupt the two-step.

Ignition Timing
When running a motor at high altitude you must advance the ignition timing.
Example: a Suzuki GS 1100/1150 motor running at 4000 feet above sea level would advance the ignition timing approximately 3-4 degrees.

Ignition Timing:
Kaw KZ 900 / 1000 / GPZ
Single plug head - 38 degrees
Dual plug Head - 32 - 34 degrees
NOS motors - 26 - 28 degrees

Suz GS 1100 / 1150
Single plug head - 34degrees

Dual plug (2-valve) - 32 - 34degrees
NOS motors - 26 - 28degrees
Battery Charging
When using a total loss ignition system where the charging system has been removed the battery only takes 1-2 runs to lose its peak voltage. Re-charging battery between rounds with a 5 amp charger will cure this problem.

Spark Plug Gaps
When running a Suzuki or Kawasaki with a Dyna-S and high performance coils set plug gap at .026. When running an MSD or Dyna-4000 Ignition system set plug gap at .018.

Spark Plugs
Racing motors usually require a heat range one colder than stock. We recommend NGK plugs. For a Suzuki GS1100-1150 use a D9EA. For a Kawasaki KZ 900-1000 use a B9ES. With a Dyna-S ignition and aftermarket coils run a gap of .028. If your vehicle has a MSD box or Dyna 4000 ignition run a plug gap of .018 - .020.

If you are having problems with your ignition or rev-limiter check your ground. Make sure that you are grounding to bare metal, not a painted surface. Dyna Ignitions, rev-limiters, two steps and Dyna 4000 Ignitions require the use of Dyna wires to work properly These wires have a wire spiral core center which doesn't interfere with the electronics on your bike.

Nitrous Oxide
When running NOS on your bike use a gasoline with an octane rating of 116-120. The higher the octane the slower the fuel burns. This allows you to run a high compression without fear of pre-ignition and detonation. The higher the compression the smaller you go on NOS and gas jet sizes. If you have a low compression motor the bigger you can go on NOS and gas jet sizes. Ignition timing must be set at 28° on Kawasaki KZ and Suzuki GS motors. A rule of thumb in jetting is to allow a spread of 4 jet sizes between gas and NOS, with gas being the larger of the two sizes.
Before filling that NOS bottle make sure it's good and cold. Place bottle for several hours in your freezer at home. NOS is under pressure at about 200 degrees below zero. Getting the bottle cold allows it to pack more tightly by creating a denser atmosphere. MAKE SURE BOTTLE STAYS COLD UNTIL YOU GET IT FILLED.

Oil Level
When changing oil in your drag racing motor never exceed 2-1/2 - 3 quarts. This amount allows adequate lubrication while allowing minimum crank windage. Break in new motors with good grade petroleum base 30w motor oil. We recommend a 5w-30 synthetic motor oil either Mobil 1 or Torco at oil changes.

When cutting the domes of blank pistons cores you must leave a minimum of .150 piston dome thickness for aspirated motors and .300 for turbo charged applications.

When breaking in a new motor DO NOT use synthetic motor oil as rings will not seal properly. Only use petroleum based motor oil.
Kaw Lock Up

Piston To Valve Clearance
For those of you with a GSXR 1100, this is the easiest method:
Put a degree wheel on crank, get exhaust at 8 degrees BTDC. Set dial indicator on valve tip and put screwdriver between the rocker arm and cam. Pull down read indicator in thousandths to check clearance. With intake set at 8 degrees ATDC, do same as above.

Wristpin Buttons
A method for determining what size teflon wristpin button you need is to subtract the length of the wristpin from the bore size. Subtract .020 from this figure, then divide by 2.

Racing Gas
Most racing engine applications use an octane rating of 108-114 when compression ratios of 12 to 1 or higher are used.
On turbo/nitrous applications where compression ratios of 8 or 9 to 1 are common, an octane rating of 120 should be used. The higher the octane rating, the slower the fuel is burned. This helps overcome detonation and pre-ignition when large amounts of turbo-boost increase cylinder pressures causing heat build-up.

Heavy Duty Cylinder Studs
When installing studs in cases put a drop of red Lock Tite on threads and torque to 10-12 ft lbs.

Heavy-duty cylinder studs
torque to 40-42 ft lb.

Heavy duty main studs
torque to 20 ft lb.

Worn and dried drag slicks can come back to life with a paint brush and a can of VHT traction compound available at your local speed shop. Apply a few coats and let dry.

Tire Temperature/Pressure
A little trick that will keep your tires at a constant temperature and pressure. Keep a nitrogen bottle with adapter and filler hose hook-up in your van. Filling tires to recommended pressure with nitrogen keeps tires from growing on hot days. Better foot-print maintained means consistent times while keeping chassis from unloading due to traction loss.

If you are using a car tire chassis with your Kawasaki motor, it is a good idea to have a heavy-duty 2nd gear input installed in your transmission. In a high-horsepower motor there is a tremendous load put on this gear when going into 2nd gear, because of the traction the tire gives you.

Suzuki 750 Straight Cut Gears
Anyone installing these gears in their motor will need to take approximately 7 teeth off the rear wheel sprocket.

Valve Springs
For those of you running high-lift cams, .485-.507 lift Kawasaki and .410-.420 lift Suzuki, we recommend changing your complete set of valve springs every 15 passes for maximum performance.

Valve Spring Pressure
When checking valve spring pressure on your Kawasaki KZ900/1000 or Suzuki GS1100/1150, measure the seat pressure at 1.400" in a valve spring checker. Kawasaki 90-100 lb, Suzuki 55-60 lb.

Valve Spring Pressure (seat)
GS1100/1150 48-50 LB Street GS110/1150 55-60+ LB Race

When doing a street/strip port job on a GSXR-1100 water cooled head we have found it very beneficial to go to a 1mm oversize intake valve.

Valve Seals
Finding it hard to install seals on late model GSXR heads with valve tappets? Applying a little white lithium grease to an 8mm socket will hold seal on socket, then press firmly and evenly into place.

Wheelie Bars
In setting up your wheelie bars we recommend painting your wheels with white shoe polish. After making a run check wheels to see if both are having weight applied equally. Adjust wheelie bar heim joints to compensate.

To get maximum lubrication to your GS1100/1150 motor, remove stock oil pump gears and replace with gears from a GS 750 4 valve model.

Valve to valve clearance ( measured on the seat ):
KZ / Z1 - .200

GS 1100/1150 - .100

APItech Stand Alone ECU/ECM for R25, CBR150,Z250sl,FZ150i/Vixion, Y15ZR/Exciter

API TECH Programmable Performance ECM (Electronic Control Module) Stand Alone Yamaha R25 Y15ZR/ Y15ZR Exciter 150, CBR250, Z250SL, FZ150i / Vixion for sale

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Quick Installation Guide provided
Improve engine performance

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- Fuel Injection and Ignition Controllable
- Daily & Racing Use

Optional Part:
- USB cable for PC/ Laptop Tuning

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We run the motorcycle on a Dynamometer machine which measures torque and horsepower throughout the RPM range.
Dyno Tuning is maximizing all aspects of the motor to achieve machine power and efficiency.

We can tell from the graph if the motorcycle is running properly, wasting fuel, or is not up to full potential.
We can pinpoint what areas are in need of adjustment then accurately make the adjustments needed
It often times is, but, also serves the street rider just as well.
Street riding involves a lot of mid RPM operation, drag strip operation is mostly concerned with wide open throttle (WOT) operation. Midrange problems that would make almost no difference on the strip, could make a street bike very hard to live with.
Dyno Tuning will expose the problems in certain ranges of RPM operations I.E. Dead spots surges of power, weird electrical problems you will never figure out on the street. Bad drive chains, exhaust problem, over or under jetting.
NO, The better the motor runs, the more efficient it is.

With the wild SWINGS in fuel prices, many people are turning to two-wheel transportation to save money and are often disappointed in fuel mileage of cycles. We can address this problem as well.

YES, Optimum efficiency and less negative horsepower go hand-in-hand
We use the Dyno to detect and measure clutch problems, misalignments, bad tires, dragging brakes and more.
Negative horsepower is drive-train DRAG, Common culprits are brake/wheel misalignment problems, bad bearings, oil and transmission lubes, tires, etc.
We can provide graphs showing this power-train drag. It is like a parasite pulling down the potential of the total package.
For $59.95 and a days notice of appointment, we can do a basic series of Dyno Runs and provide Graphs, analyze and explain them to you. Your bike may run perfect or we may spot problems and make suggestions as to fixing them.
You decide. Often customers have been told "that's the way that model runs" or "they are all like that" by shops that don't have the equipment or knowledge to make it run better.
We typically see 10% improvement or better in machines that owners thought were running 100%
All makes and models, including Japanese, sport bikes, Harley, Triumph, Ducati, MV Agusta, Aprilia
We have had a large surge of interest recently in Japanese cycles and Japanese sport bikes. We are happy to meet the needs of these customer and word has gotten out of our abilities with the machines. Japanese cycles represent 70% of the machines on the road today. We are committed to serving them also.
Not so, Many jet kits and exhaust products are available for sport bikes to increase performance, but you need Dyno runs to judge the mods.
We have on occasion seen 40-50% improvement using basic tuning techniques on bikes the owners were running that way for years, just with jets and exhaust mods and tuning- no big dollar bolt-ons!!

YES, 30% faster
Nothing, But, they can be compared to the concept of Dyno-tuning.
A flock of geese represents one total unit. with each goose doing its job, the formation moves 30% faster. Dyno-Tuning is a combination of many tuning operations.
Our goal is to isolate each aspect of the tuning and make it work well with all other aspects, as they are all interrelated. Carburetion too big, too small, good carb, bad carb, high flow air cleaner, etc.
Ignition Hot sparks, weak sparks, good advance curve, bad curve for compression ratio, etc.
Spark Timing Too Early, Too Late Exhaust Tuning Too restrictive, not restrictive enough, poor design that needs modification Intake System Poor design, carb to manifold needs matching, etc.
Carb Jetting Too rich, too lean (There ARE multiple circuits), accelerator Pump problems, carburetor synchronization of multiple carb bikes All these segments MUST be in sync to work up to their potential ,but increase 30% or more are possible when everything works as a team.
Remember it is the sum of small things that count. If you can't relate to the geese, then think of the different aspects of Dyno tuning as the members of a musical group and how it would sound, if all the instruments were not correctly tuned. We use the Dyno-tuning process to put every thing in order.
There is nothing on earth quite like the sound of a big inch Harley with straight pipes in perfect tune. To some if it is music!
We can tune for mid range torque, instead of horsepower, mid range is more useful for street and touring use and less money at the gas pump.
NO, We will do a series of runs while you wait and go over the print out and analyze the results and suggest a course of action.
If you want to go further with it, you must leave it with us.
Just about all bikes that have a motor in decent shape will gain power and efficiency from this process, a lot of guys just want to know what their bike puts out in a quick no hassle way. $59.95 for 9 runs and print outs.
Yes, simply make an appointment and we will do the basic diagnostic runs for the fee of $59.95
Your motor must over come any drag in the drive train to create speed on the road. Negative horse power slows you down, wastes gas, overworks motor and makes bike harder to push in and out of the garage.
Are you curious what you have for horsepower?
Don't understand why those new exhaust pipes, cams and/or filters aren't really increasing your performance the way you thought they would?
In less than an hour, your motorcycle can be Dyno Tested and out the door, with your print outs in hand. "Putting your motorcycle on the Dynamometer (Dyno) can give you the Baseline Stats of your bike and direct you towards needed adjustments, or at least get you headed in the right direction.
If you feel you cannot accomplish the tuning, you can always leave it for us to finish.
Our Motocraft Dynamometer is a performance diagnostic tool that is used to accurately and simultaneously measure the rear wheel horsepower, torque, speed, RPM of any motorcycle. It can accurately test from as little as 5 horsepower, and up to as high as 500 horsepower. Motocraft’s Dyno Service will test all motorcycles.
 Determine exactly how much horsepower and torque your motorcycle is delivering to the rear wheel, before and after the performance modifications are made.

Welcoming our dyno machine as our new lab facility!

Dynamometer consists on a metallic structure in which the bikes are placed through a ramp. Bike is tied to the dynamometer by the front wheel through a clamp that can be moved ahead and back with the purpose of fitting the position of the back wheel. This wheel is placed over a solid roller of steel that is fixed on the structure with two bearings.

Now Motocraft bring you a brand new dyno to fulfill our research & development need and also to deliver best value in customer's bike tuning.

Dyno tuning now available for ecu remapping customer, and other piggyback customer such as bazzaz and power commander.

come and visit us now at:

Motocraft Performance Lab
33-1 Jalan BPP 5/1,
Pusat Bandar Putra Permai
43300 Seri Kembangan,

Power Commander Versus ECU Remapping

Power Commander Versus ECU Remapping 

This is the one question I get asked the most often when it comes to street and track bike tuning. So I’ll give you my perspective. I’ll start by saying they’re both excellent at what they do. And maybe the best way to go about answering this in a way everyone can understand is to describe what they both can and cant do.

Power Commander (PCV, Bazzaz – Piggy back Fuel Controllers)
  • They intercept and change the signal from the Engine Control Unit (ECU) to the injectors, adding or taking away fuel during combustion. This alters the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) of the bike, more fuel equates to a richer AFR, less fuel a leaner AFR. Rich AFR’s will present the following issues.
    • Dirty exhaust pipe or soot and excessive smoke (unburnt fuel)
    • Cooler combustion and exhaust temperatures
    • More emissions to the atmosphere
    • Less power
  • Leaner AFR’s will present these issues
    • Too lean – high combustion and exhaust temperatures, engine damage – holed pistons etc
    • Detonation
ECU Remapping
  • AFR’s. The ECU’s internal settings or parameters are edited so that the AFR’s are changed to bring them closer to the ideal 14.7:1. Most tuners will aim for anywhere between 12.8-13.1 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT) as this provides a safety margin. ECU remapping can achieve this without hacking into the bikes wiring or having additional components strewn throughout the bike by altering the existing factory maps.
  • Timing. Timing tables or maps can also be edited. Altering (advancing) the bikes timing is where more power can be safely gained over border line AFR’s. Fuel controllers can not alter a bikes timing. Factories sometimes install timing retards in the first three gears of their bikes to lessen the power hit. People sometimes fit Timing Retard Eliminators (TRE’s) to combat this, again more wiring, modifications and components to install. When an ECU is remapped, these retards are simply removed and you’re good to go without the need of a TRE.
  • Settings. There are many settings and limits which can be changed or removed when an ECU is remapped. Some of which are listed below.
    • Top speed limiters can be removed
    • Idle speed can be increased/decreased
    • Rev limits can be increased, this sometimes lets you pull a gear that bit longer before having to shift or have the rev limiter savagely cut in adding to your lap times.
    • Thermo fan cut in temps can be altered
    • Deceleration maps can be altered giving a much improved throttle transition and removing that dreaded snatch.
Proponents of Power Commanders are usually tuners (or customers of) who have a dyno in their workshop, they will fit your fuel controller then give you a “custom tune” to suit your bike and its modifications. They do this by adjusting the fuel controller until they are satisfied with the AFR’s throughout the rev range of your bike, you then give you a print out that shows the AFR curve as well as power and torque curves. Nice to show your mates. The issue here is that it i
s very easy to manipulate the results of the dyno graph to show a much larger gain than you actually got. This is a problem throughout all disciplines of automotive tuning. It has to be said though that there are decent and reputable tuners who don’t do this, so don’t be afraid to ask if you go down this path.
These tuners will argue that manufacturing tolerance deviations will produce bikes that are all profoundly different and require custom AFR tuning. My take is that modern manufacturing processes now punch out bikes that are so closely cloned that I’m not sure this is such an issue any more, lets face it, the bikes all pretty much feel the same off the show room floor.
ECU tune developers will take a bike and tune it both on the track and on the dyno in every conceivable state of modification and develop tunes for each of these, for example there will be an optimised tune to suit an R1 in stock trim, then another tune developed for the bike with a slip on, then another with a full system and so on. So the end user will get a tune pretty much customised for their bike if they tell the tuner exactly what they have done. And there is always a factor of safety built into these tune files to ensure reliability. I’ve had customers put their bikes on a dyno after an ECU remap and their AFR’s are just about bang on. So the tune developers really do get it right.

The optimum setup would be to have your ECU remapped, then fit a fuel controller and have it dyno tuned to get your fuelling precise. This is what all of my race team customers do. For the average punter though, if  you had to choose one, the ECU remap would be in my opinion, the best value modification you could do for your bike – hands down.

Triumph Unofficial Service Center

Motocraft as Triumph recond bike supporter.

We able to maintain,fix and servicing all triumph bike that not accepted by local Triumph official service center.

We also developed a Triumph Daytona 675 race bike for Malaysia Super Series (MSS), looking forward if you want us to modify your bike also

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We are Gripone Traction Control System Malaysia Dealer!!

For all bikes!! Please contact us for details